Appliqué Totes

Overdyed Raw Edge Appliqué Totes

By Dianne Giancola

Raw edge appliqué is a technique often used in quilting projects. It's quicker than traditional appliqué. Instead of turning under and stitching the edge of the appliqué, it is left unfinished. During dyeing and laundering the edges fray which creates a raggedy edge that has a shabby chic look. In this project, a dahlia flower appliqué is stitched to a white handbag. If you prefer to just make the appliqué, it can be stitched to a 12" white fabric square and then stitched to a pillow or other item. Then after stitching, the bag is dyed which results in the appliqué being overdyed.

Overdyeing is the process of taking solid color or printed fabrics and dyeing them another color. Beautiful and sometimes surprising effects can be achieved, especially if you use polka dots, checks and multi-colored patterns. The principles of color mixing apply (yellow and blue make green).

Benefits of Overdyeing

  • For raw edge appliqué, the overdyeing dyes the underside of the fabric so both sides of the fabric look the same and you don't see white or grey.
  • Create a coordinated look by overdyeing a group of fabrics that are not color related. By overdyeing them one color, they become similar in value.
  • Turn previously rejected fabrics into fabrics you want to use. Give fabrics a new color or value.
  • Give new fabrics a “vintage" look by overdyeing them with a small amount (1/2 to one teas.) of Tan or Taupe liquid dye.

Supplies Needed:

  • Rit Liquid Dye: Lemon Yellow, Kelly Green, Tangerine
  • 1 Fat Quarter (18" x 22") Cotton Fabric -- Large scale flower in rose/red, pink, orange/yellow colors for petals
  • 1 Fat Quarter (18" x 22") Cotton Fabric -- Small scale flower with a yellow background & delicate peach flowers
  • 1 Fat Quarter (18" x 22") Cotton Fabric -- Red & pink polka dots on a white ground for center of flower
  • White Handbag, sewn or purchased, or 12" square white fabric
  • Clear Plastic Template Sheets
  • Disappearing Fabric Pen
  • Water Soluble Fabric Glue Stick
  • Dahlia Flower Pattern Pieces
  • 3-Gallon plastic tub or bucket
  • Rubber gloves
  • Salt
  • Liquid detergent
  • Paper towels
  • Plastic table cover

How to Create a Raw Edge Appliqué Flower

Dahlia flower is created from two simple shapes – a petal and a circle.

  1. Trace pattern shapes onto a clear plastic template sheet and cut them out. This makes it easy to trace around the pattern and you can “fussy cut" because you can see where you are placing the pattern on the fabric and position a motif in just the right place.
  2. Using the disappearing fabric marking pen, trace 6 petals on the reddish, large scale print. Cut out petals.
  3. Place 6 petals in the center of handbag or on a 12" square of white cotton fabric. Fold fabric to find center. Glue petals in place using a water-soluble fabric glue stick. This will be washed out before you overdye.
  4. Stitch ¼" from raw edge of each petal.
  5. Cut out 6 petals in yellow print and then glue these petals over the first circle of petals, alternating between the first layer of petals.
  6. Stitch yellow petals down the center, stopping about ¾" from the tip. This gives dimension to the flower, especially after it's been laundered and begins to fray.
     
  7. Add a polka dot circle to center of flower. Glue in place. Mark stitching lines with a disappearing ink pen. Machine stitch through all layers on the marked lines.
  8. Appliquéd flower is ready to be overdyed.

How to Overdye Fabric

  1. Weigh the handbag or fabric. The weight tells you how much dye to use. For example, 1 box of powdered dye (2 Tablespoons) or ½ cup (4 ounces) liquid dye will color 1 lb. (16 ounces) dry weight fabric (about 3 yards fabric). Handbag shown weighs 8 ounces.
  2. Soak handbag with appliqué in cold water to remove any ink marks; then wash in mild soap and water; rinse.
  3. Prepare Dye Solution for Chartreuse Bag: Wearing rubber gloves, measure and mix ¼ cup Lemon Yellow liquid dye with 1 ½ teaspoons Kelly Green liquid dye (this is a custom color). Add 4 cups very hot water, ¼ cup salt and a squirt of liquid detergent; stir well. Note: If tap water is not hot enough (140º F), heat water in the microwave or in a tea kettle. For Tangerine Handbag: Use ¼ cup Tangerine liquid dye, following the steps above.
  4. Fill a bucket or plastic tub with 2 gallons of hot tap water. Add dye solution and stir well.
  5. Wet handbag or fabric to be dyed. Add to dyebath. Wearing rubber gloves, stir constantly until desired color is reached, up to 30 minutes.
  6. Rinse in cool water until water runs clear. Then launder in warm water with mild detergent. Dry in dryer to fluff up raw edges of appliqué. If necessary, iron bag.

    All the overdyed fabrics take on light and dark values of the dye color used.


 

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